Katana Owners Club U.K.

Hi folks,

Ever been had, of course you have. Anyway this bike was running before it was stripped by the previous owner
Rectifier fried and stator too so new ones ordered from electrexworld. Just tested pick ups and dead too. There was a horrible kink in the wires so was hoping they had cracked and split and this was the case just need to splice some new wire to it. My question is when I’ve got the tester on the diode resistance setting 2k I’m getting .160 on both green/black and blue/yellow. But manual states 130-200 perhaps I’ve not got meter on the right setting
Also what does the 1.4 LHS and 2.3 RHS represent?
Gaps between pick up and rotor measures .014mm and 0.018 mm.

1.4 and 2.3 is easy! That's the cylinders triggered/fired by the pick up that is below the numbers.

As for the other bit.....

Bearing in mind I have not got the manual or your multimeter in front of me.....

Are you trying to measure the resistance of the pick up coils?

Because if you are, and the meter is set to 0-2K Ohms. Then the figure you are getting could well be 160 ohms, which should be good as it's within the range specified.

You have typed .160 Is this correct? In which case they are as near as dammit both short circuit. Which is not good.

If you are measuring using the diode test function then the figure you are getting is the voltage drop across the coils. Now I do not think that there are diodes in the pick up assembly..

Photos! Photos would be good of the meter in use!

The gap between the pick ups and the rotor should be the same (That could just be the “Tiffy” in me though) as it will affect the firing point between the 2 pairs of cylinders. But in reality given the slightly less than precise nature of the system and road use, it is unlikely to show up. Different if you were trying to extract the maximum performance out of the donkey of course!

Thanks for the info and help. With regards to checking electrical components I’m just doing things parrot fashion without any real understanding. Well a little.
Anyway some background info checked the rectifier as per OE manual which states A to B, C, D, E as per photo. Mine was completely dead checking on the 2k diode resistance symbol setting. Now the interesting part, checked the new electrex world rectifier on the same setting and got
B 0.558 C 0.560 D 0.560 E .560 manual
states 6 to 7.5 for B to D and 50 to 70 for E
So not sure what I’m doing wrong? E is way out. Anyway found electrexworld video “how to check rectifier” and the figures match mine 0.560 ish. Yes I did mean to type 0.560 it does say in the manual x1 ohms range but I only have continuity setting and 2k. So maybe this is the cause of different readings?
Now back to pick ups: manual states 130 to 200 ohms green to black then blue to yellow standard resistance. I’m getting
Green to Black .174
Blue to yellow .180
See photo of my setting on MM
They say dog owners look like their pets. I guess it’s true for bike owners too. I’m certainly knackered

You could try going down to the 200ohm range and testing again.
The display on your meter does not indicate that you are on the diode test (does pushing the "Hold" button switch to the alternate function?).

Some times testing an item like that is awkward and if you hold the probes onto the tags, you end up measuring your own resistance. I have a collection of test clips and wires that I have accrued over the years