83' 1100SD Scary Front Brakes ..............

[Bluesman]

Is there a ''modern' master cylinder that is a straight fitment to my Kat? I've overhauled the calipers and m/cylinder, fitted braided hoses and bled many times, the lever doesn't come back to the bar and they do work as per 1983 I guess. My two other bikes have radial brakes (one as standard and the other I've updated) so an unfair comparison I know, but any help in gaining a little improvement would be greatly appreciated.

[fossie]

The most likely candidate would be Hyabusa...But I have to ask is the antidive still connected and if so did you overhaul that as well.
If it's still in the system and the little pistons in it are not working as they should have done all them years ago the technical term is pissin'in the wind!

[Bluesman]

The most likely candidate would be Hyabusa...But I have to ask is the antidive still connected and if so did you overhaul that as well.
If it's still in the system and the little pistons in it are not working as they should have done all them years ago the technical term is pissin'in the wind!

Thanks for the info fossie much appreciated. I'll give the antidive units a thorough cleaning and see if that helps ........ I don't want to get into the habit of applying this much lever pressure I'll put myself in orbit on my other bikes! could always ride slower I guess

[Kryten]

To paraphrase Grease Rat;"Braking's just a question of money. How fast do you wanna slow down?"

As Fossie said, disconnect the Aunty Dive. Was pretty “Meh” in it’s day so not advantage now. I have removed the connection to the brake system and replaced the piston/actuators with adjustable caps on Skruffy Kat. These are set to minimum, and so still allow some fork oil to bypass the dampers as Mr Suzuki intended.

Beware though. A plain blanking plate would push all the hydraulic fluid through the damper and give you max compression damping all the while.

A full service of the callipers including the sliding pins and the pad springs will bring them up to full performance.

If you are looking for a later m/c you probably would need a 5/8 bore to maintain the feel/travel/bite ratio’s.

I’m going to use an m/c off a GSX-R 750H on my ‘82SZ as the original had surfed on tarmac at some point.

Maybe increase your spinach intake as well!



After that you’re into Effy or Slabby calipers, EBC Floaty disc’s or modern front ends.

[Bluesman]

To paraphrase Grease Rat;"Braking's just a question of money. How fast do you wanna slow down?"

As Fossie said, disconnect the Aunty Dive. Was pretty “Meh” in it’s day so not advantage now. I have removed the connection to the brake system and replaced the piston/actuators with adjustable caps on Skruffy Kat. These are set to minimum, and so still allow some fork oil to bypass the dampers as Mr Suzuki intended.

Beware though. A plain blanking plate would push all the hydraulic fluid through the damper and give you max compression damping all the while.

A full service of the callipers including the sliding pins and the pad springs will bring them up to full performance.

If you are looking for a later m/c you probably would need a 5/8 bore to maintain the feel/travel/bite ratio’s.

I’m going to use an m/c off a GSX-R 750H on my ‘82SZ as the original had surfed on tarmac at some point.

Maybe increase your spinach intake as well!



After that you’re into Effy or Slabby calipers, EBC Floaty disc’s or modern front ends.

Thanks Kryten, I want to keep her standard so will have to put up with the anti dive, I'll give the anti dive units a good clean and see if that helps.

[fossie]

Bluesman..As for the antidive units. The seals are no longer available from Suzuki but a chap (Christian) has had new ones made and can be contacted on the German owners club site as Silverlinekatana..
I have just unattatched the brake line from the caliper to anti dive unitwhich I left in situ and just run direct from Mastercylinder to left caliper and one straight to right caliper . It works for me and my brakes are as good as my work bike ...(V strom 650 .). Around Europe 2 up..

[Bluesman]

Thanks fossie, as a matter of interest, was the reason you disconnected the anti dive units the same as my problem?

[fossie]

Disconnecting the units was a common thing after a few years because it traps air when bleeding and or the little pistons seize in just like brake pistons.
Basically they were a fad in the 80's simple and complicated at the same time . In '83 on Pop up and ES range . the antidive system was changed to fork oil operated rather than the brake fluid operation of the Early Kats .
After '86 anti dive disappeared .... Which says it all really

[Bluesman]

Anti dive disconnected this morning, lever travel is the same but feels firmer, to bloody cold for a test ride. Thanks for all the advice/info.

[fossie]

Glad it's better and if you've forked out for braided hoses already then it'd be a waste , but next time don't go from master cyl to splitter and the a line from splitter to calipers as per factory ...just one line straight to left caliper and one to right caliper changing the banjo bolt at the m/cyl to a double , This eliminates the chance of an airpocket etc..
The reason it is originally set up the way it was is simple cost..each part can be built up at various work stations and simply put together .
The travel you have could simply what you are used to or it could be slack in the spring in cyl . Try a small washer between cyl piston and lever .. ( courier bodge!)