The clutch push lever oil seal (part no 09285-12002) on top of the bike engine on the RHS seems to be leaking oil. By that, I mean the O-ring on the small lever/arm on the RHS of the engine the clutch cable is attached to. Hope that makes sense. Can post a photo if necessary.
Is this an easy seal to replace? Does the clutch cover have to be removed first or can the seal just be removed after taking the lever off, which is attached by one bolt? The seal seems to be partly visible, so I'm hoping the cover doesn't have to be removed.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
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fossie
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
A good question , which at the moment I can't answer , However I may have aspare clutch cover , if they didn't all go to geekay so I can investigate over the weekend .
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fossie
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
A good question , which at the moment I can't answer , However I may have aspare clutch cover , if they didn't all go to geekay so I can investigate over the weekend .
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craik
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
Thanks.
Here's a photo of the offending seal I should have posted, rather than my garbled description.
I guess I could try just removing the bolt, take the arm off the splines and try levering out the seal with a flat headed screwdriver?
Here's a photo of the offending seal I should have posted, rather than my garbled description.
I guess I could try just removing the bolt, take the arm off the splines and try levering out the seal with a flat headed screwdriver?
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fossie
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
Looking at exploded diagram there are 2 seals , so 1 must be under the actuator arm the other on the shaft .
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Kryten
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
Hi.
I have replaced that oil seal on the Kat I am rebuilding at the moment.
You are right in that it is removed outwards from below the actuator lever. This just lifts off having removed the pinch bolt. But it might need a bit of gently persuasion to get it moving.
The seal may well then be removed using a suitable tool to lever it up and out. But it may prove to stubborn! If you can get the seal out with everything in place then tap the new seal in having given it a wipe over with some grease.
I practised on a damaged clutch cover and found that the seal and upper needle roller bearing will come out if the clutch actuator shaft is drifted gently from below to move both the upper bearing and seal. This should leave the upper bearing able to be refitted.
The lower bearing I could not remove without destroying it! The only reason to remove the lower bearing is to have the clutch cover chemically dipped or some such, unless you found the cover in the compost heap or in a canal
Refitting is pretty straight forward. I greased the lower bearing with corrosion resistant grease, Then dropped the actuator shaft into place.
Then having greased the upper bearing it can be gently drifted back in followed by the seal that has also been greased to avoid damage to the seal lips. A 3/8” or 1/2” drive socket is as good as anything to use as a drift.
I have replaced that oil seal on the Kat I am rebuilding at the moment.
You are right in that it is removed outwards from below the actuator lever. This just lifts off having removed the pinch bolt. But it might need a bit of gently persuasion to get it moving.
The seal may well then be removed using a suitable tool to lever it up and out. But it may prove to stubborn! If you can get the seal out with everything in place then tap the new seal in having given it a wipe over with some grease.
I practised on a damaged clutch cover and found that the seal and upper needle roller bearing will come out if the clutch actuator shaft is drifted gently from below to move both the upper bearing and seal. This should leave the upper bearing able to be refitted.
The lower bearing I could not remove without destroying it! The only reason to remove the lower bearing is to have the clutch cover chemically dipped or some such, unless you found the cover in the compost heap or in a canal
Refitting is pretty straight forward. I greased the lower bearing with corrosion resistant grease, Then dropped the actuator shaft into place.
Then having greased the upper bearing it can be gently drifted back in followed by the seal that has also been greased to avoid damage to the seal lips. A 3/8” or 1/2” drive socket is as good as anything to use as a drift.
Jim
750 SZ (Not So) Skruffy Kat
1000 SZ in bits
7/11 SZ Long term
T509 Back on the road!
It was a New Day yesterday but, by God, it's an Old Day now!
750 SZ (Not So) Skruffy Kat
1000 SZ in bits
7/11 SZ Long term
T509 Back on the road!
It was a New Day yesterday but, by God, it's an Old Day now!
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craik
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Re: Suzuki GS 650 Katana Clutch Push Lever Oil Seal
Well in the end, the seal just came out using a flat bladed screwdriver. No need to take the cover off. So it was a quick job.
Looking on YT, it seems other bikes sometimes require removal of the cover to gain access to the seal but I was lucky here. Took the bike for a quick spin and it seems to be oil tight so far, so fingers crossed that's fixed it.
For anyone that's interested, got the seal (pattern) from Wemoto for £3.47 inc P&P. They're based in the UK and have quite a few Katana parts. Have found them reliable with good service in the past.
Looking on YT, it seems other bikes sometimes require removal of the cover to gain access to the seal but I was lucky here. Took the bike for a quick spin and it seems to be oil tight so far, so fingers crossed that's fixed it.
For anyone that's interested, got the seal (pattern) from Wemoto for £3.47 inc P&P. They're based in the UK and have quite a few Katana parts. Have found them reliable with good service in the past.
