Katana Owners Club U.K.

Maybe another blonde moment but... do you normally have a earth wire from battery earth to frame ? Only reason i ask is because i put the battery on charge overnight, and when i hooked it up this morning the ignition lights were not working and the starter solanoid was clicking and nothing from the starter

Was poking around with a multimeter trying to pretend i knew what i was doing, when i noticed i wasnt getting a 12v when i earthed the multimeter to the frame(or not as it turns out) but was straight from the battery. Stuck a earth from the battery to the frame and hey presto - lights and starter spins

Now ...where does the petrol go again ?.......................

cheers

Pete

It also pays to make sure the engine is grounded well to the frame if its been powder coated, forgot to connect the engine earth strap on a car years ago and found it quite amusing that the choke cable glowed red when trying to start the car !

i always run an earth from the engine direct to the battery as well as an earth to the frame.

How would a poor earth manifest itself with regards to the starter motor ? the reason i ask is that both my 550 and 400 have a similier problem with the starter. Sometimes when i press the start button i get nothing, and have to push it a few times before it spins the starter. would that be a bad earth do you think ? or is it the switch ? seems strange that i does it on both the bikes

thanks

Pete

chances are that you have a bad connection within the handlebar button. simple test is, if you press the button and theres a click from below the seat, then your switching side is ok, and the problem is downstream of the starter relay. if you press the button and dont get a click, then take the starter button apart and give it a good clean out inside to make sure it connects ok. its a common thing on bikes not used much!
bad earths can make the starter not spin fast enough, as the current struggles to overcome the resistance of the poor earth. remember that when the solenoid clicks, the power goes from the battery plates(lead) via the bolt and mounting for the power lead(brass) into the lead(copper) down to the starter relay(copper and steel, via 2 brass connections onto copper cables) down to the starter motor(steel, carbon brushes, copper armature steel shaft ) down to earth in the engine(ally) then the current has to go back through the casings to the frame(steel and rust!) to the earth post(steel rust copper brass, other wires, insulation tape, paint powdercoat etc) down the lead(copper) into the battery terminal(lead) etc etc, now every change of material creates resistance, every change in cable size adds resistance, every connector and bit of crap in the way adds resistance and thats why your starter motor lurches, but your wiring is almost glowing red with the heat. so, as the starter motor is by far the heaviest user of power on the bike, i like to make it easy by making the route back to the battery as easy and short as possible.
a seperate earth to the casings clost to, or better still straight onto one of the mounting bolts of the starter motor will give the starter battery and wiring system an easier time all round.

Cheers for that John and Blix.

I will have a looky at the switch because i get no clicking. Bike was standing for 10 years which dont help. when i stripped her down (oh err) i found dead spiders and spider web wrapped insects all over the place. Inside the switches as well !!!

cheers again

Pete

theres a small spring inside the button that holds it in place. this also conducts the electricity when you press it. if the spring is rusty, it doesnt connect too well. take it out, clean the ends a bit with some fine wet/dry paper and put it back with a liberal spray of wd40 or duck oil and try it

Will do

Pete

It's probs in that pile o bits on the floor Pete

Mock all you like when i turn up on my silver dream machine, all of you will be jealous. Mwah Mwah Mwahhhhhhh

Pete