Katana Owners Club U.K.

The indicator relay is sensitive to battery voltage. It does run slower with lower voltage. Especially if it is the original type using a bi-metal strip to function.

Skruffy Kat had for years slow flash rate and occasionally non flashing indicators (usually at the MoT station )

The tester was always commenting on them, but it was not ever given as an advisory.

In the end I got fed up with them and replaced the original relay with an electronic one of Ebay. This has a rotary micro switch than can be used to adjust the flash rate to compensate for using LED’s instead of incandescent lamps in the indicator units.

I don’t have LED’s in mine but it cured the low flash rate.

This is the one I have on the Kat:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162728580599

I've been converting some of my 6v bikes to electronic relay with LED indicator bulbs and also in process of the 12V X7.

I used this relay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294740856917 as does 6-12V. It does have a annoying beep as well but I opened up and cut the speaker wires. I used LED bulbs and all works good, no flash rate control but was fine as is. You don't have to phaff around with ballast resisters then.

On the Katana clocks with left/right idiot bulbs that's all you have to do. On bikes with 1 idiot light then you have add a couple of diodes to get things to work correctly (if anyone wants to do that with another bike I can give the details and why if you ask).
Works really well with the 6V bikes

For a fiver why wouldn't you change the relay , but if non worked then did it seems earth related.

Like I said it must be an earth issue. Did they work OK before , have you altered owt?
The original indicators were earthed from the ring around the capture bolt. This often broke or corroded .
Changing for newer low voltage ones seldom work correctly with original flasher can.

stock relays work on resistance, you turn the power on, the relay opens and the resistance through the connection makes it get hot, as its effectively a bimetalic strip, when it gets hot, it bends, breaking the contact. contact broken, the bimetalic strip cools down, bends back and closes, re establishing the contact etc etc. so your problem might still be with the old relay or its wiring, going to led lamps and relay will get them working because theres very little current required to power an led.
most indicator problems are earth related, check your earths, then check your earths, then finally, check your earths......

Can't you just get some LED BA15S (assuming those indicators take that type) that don't stick out so far...?

Something like https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253825221927 can't be longer than original.
Or if you want to pay more.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185596062814
I got some even lower profile ones for the 6v I bought, just a couple og mm out from the holder.

I saw the video on our FB Group ( It is easier for video on there) - I stayed right to the end