Well wasn't going to be!

[fossie]

The bulbs are changed from the back, you take the speedo off , then take off the bezel and the bulbs holders are obvious. Well done for preserving...

[Smallkat]

Well done for preserving.... what? I am not doing a restoration on it. Yet.

[Kryten]

Well done for preserving.... what? I am not doing a restoration on it. Yet.

Think he meant “Percy Veering”

As he did say, you need to remove the instrument cluster from the top yoke first. Then pull the trip reset knob away from the housing.


Remove the rear cover with the metal lower cover, speedo drive gearbox, then the mounting bracket from the back of the cluster.
Note the order the mounting bracket comes off before the speedo drive and goes back on before it.

Then the sub-loom with the wedge lamps in their rubber housings can be removed.
I replaced all of mine with LED versions of the T10 lamp. which works well for the backlighting and the indicator, neutral and oil pressure. However I found that the main beam indicator is rather bright and a bit distracting.


Lamps:


I used ones like these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-501-Led- ... %3A2334524

But you may want to try the 6 LED ones here:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-501-W5W- ... %3A2334524

[Smallkat]

Thanks Jim. That's brilliant info. There's no problem with resistance or other such electrical wizardry with the turn indicator? I am not good with electrics.

I will use the first option bulbs as they are tried and tested by you.

I don't ride at night, so the main beam isn't a problem!

[fossie]

Actually I did mean Percy veering...but the iPad changed it and it seemed appropriate enough !
But I am pleased that you got it sorted enough to get it ridden . Well done .

[Kryten]

Thanks Jim. That's brilliant info. There's no problem with resistance or other such electrical wizardry with the turn indicator? I am not good with electrics.

I will use the first option bulbs as they are tried and tested by you.

I don't ride at night, so the main beam isn't a problem!

The only issue I have with the indicators is that I get a “double flash” of the LED when they first light up, but the indicators themselves work fine.

Top tip if you do go the LED route is to fit the LEDs then test them before you re-assemble the instrument cluster. This is because they are polarity sensitive unlike filament lamps. It is easy to get them in the wrong way round. So if you fit them and some work just take the ones that don’t out and turn them and try again.

[Smallkat]

LEDs ordered.

Job for today is to change the gear shift linkage. I went to adjust it and of course that's jiggered.

I ordered up a new link rod and the left-hand adjuster nut, along with two new rubber boots for the rose joints.

You can see that the new rod is not a lovely thick chrome-plated thing. It's a superseded part number from a TL1000R (original number 25525-19D00, new number 25525-19D20). It is a few mm longer, which isn't a problem and it is straight. Not like the old part.

Disassemble, re-grease joints and pop new boots on (part number 25526-47000 - not shown separately on parts diagram). Now it's looking lovely.

[geekay]

I spent a veritable fortune with Slinger Suzuki back in the '90s when I was restoring old Suzuki's (TS400J, T125 Stingers, T250 Hustlers etc) - John the parts man was very helpful. He was responsible for me buying a new TL1000S back in 1998.

[Smallkat]

Yes, John was very knowledgeable. Fun fact about John - he has no bike licence despite owning bikes!

[Smallkat]

Not really necessary, but the old number plate was too big.
Replaced it with something a bit smaller, but hopefully wont attract unwanted attention from Plod.
Changed the smoke indicator lenses to amber to match the front. The smoke lenses are going on Smallkat.